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Every month Master Moore will address a technique in detail. He will stay with basic techniques that everyone is familiar with. Feel free to Email the AFJ with techniques that you would like to have explained.

 

HIP THROW-OGOSHI
The hip throw is found is every style of Jujitsu and in many other arts. The throw consists of the basic principles of a throw. Kuzushi- off balance, Tsukuri- entry and Kake- execution. A basic right handed throw is as follows; You off balance your partner to his front (weight on his toes), you pivot 180 degrees while bending your knees, your right arm passes under his left arm while your left hand controls his right arm or sleeve. You roll your partner over your hip (which is extended slightly out to your right), he flips over you and lands with a left side fall. Two major pivots can be used. The first pivot is used when your partner is stationary or moving to his rear. The standard forward pivot is- With your right foot step diagonally forward to the right, pivot on your right foot as you slide your left foot into position. The second pivot is the rear pivot. The rear pivot is used when your partner is moving forwards towards you- Slide your left foot in a circular movement to your left rear corner and step through with your right foot. This will create a very smooth throw.
Most artist know the hip throw because it is the foundation for all standing forward throws. We should always strive for maximum efficiency and minimum effort. The biggest mistake when demonstrating this throw is to pivot too close to your partner and use too much hip thrust to finish the technique. Give this a try- pivot halfway between you and your opponents feet as you stay low (your belt lower then his) You will feel like you are to far away from him to throw. Use your upper body in one unit to bring him close and roll him over your hip (no thrusting lift). You will double your speed and double your partners impact. (don't abuse your partner, it's hard to practice by yourself).
Master Moore

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HAND GUN DISARM
This is a quick disarm that will eject a gun 6 feet or more away from the attacker. If at all possible during a gun threat, give the attacker what he wants, if this is futile, you must perform with confidence and commitment. For this description we will have your partner hold a fake gun in his right hand, threatening you at face level. Never practice with a real gun even if it is unloaded. This disarm is not used for a two hand grip. From a natural stance, your arms at your side, raise your hands (like a stick up) and act compliant. Move your head to the left out of the line of fire, as you strike his right hand which is gripping the gun on the knuckle line with your left palm. With your right wrist, not your hand, strike inside his forearm several inches above his wrist. Your right palm should face him during the movement. This chopping motion should happen at the same time with both your hands while you move your head towards your left. When finished properly his wrist will hinge, and the gun will eject from his grip. Immediately subdue or incapacitate your attacker. This biggest mistake when practicing this technique is striking the inside of his wrist with your right wrist. This will jam the hinging motion and stops the disarm, you must strike several inches above the hinge point. This technique should be practiced until it is automatic. It is extremely fast and effective. Please don't try kicking a gun out of an attacker's hand, his hand is smaller and faster then your foot, but as a trained Martial Artist your hands will be faster then his.
Master Moore


(The right hand striking the inside of the arm I would go a little further in the explanation.  I am sure that you know that these are one of four striking points.  Either the Pericardium Meridian 4 and 5 point or the Lung #6 point which are being struck, and the reason for these meridians are because they control the tendons which in turn control the opening and shutting of your entire hand.  This is my point.  As I am sure you know, if you hit this point at a 45 degree angle or strike it at any angle which your hand hits it towards the body of the assailant, the tendons will act as closing the hand thus could have dire circumstances, however, if the arm is hit in this area at any angle preferably a 45 degree angle toward the direction of the hand of the assailant, it would have the opposite effect and force the tendons to open the hand, thus releasing the grip on the gun.  I have my students rub their own arms with their knuckles each way while setting their arms on a desk or a table and seeing the difference when rubbing toward themselves the hand will close and when rubbing away from their own body, the hand will open. The addition to this description was submitted by Dr. Neal from  
www.Agapediet.com )
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KESA GATAME, SCARF HOLD DOWN
After you have thrown your opponent to the ground with a right handed throw or takedown, wrap your right arm around his neck. Sit with your right lower side of your back to his right ribs just below his right armpit. Spread your legs to make the hold stable. With your left hand, grip his right arm against the front of your body. Lower your head towards the right side of his head to protect your neck and face.
 
 



From this hold there are three good submission techniques.
The first, if he frees his arm and tries to push at your face, take your left hand on the outside of his right elbow and push his own right arm across his neck. Press your head against his arm and form a noose around his arm and neck by grabbing your right wrist with your left hand a squeezing. For extra pressure you can go from a sitting position to a semi- kneeling position. Place your right knee against his right hip and drive your body weight into the arm/necklock that you have secured with your grip.
 
 



The second, if he frees his arm and tries to straighten it away from his body, secure his right wrist under your left knee. Using the underside of your left knee bend your leg to squeeze his right wrist and with your leg pull his arm like your trying to pull it out of the shoulder socket. Then bend your right leg and place it under his right elbow, just above the joint. Break the arm by applying pressure upwards with your right knee which is under his elbow and downwards with your left knee, which has his wrist secured. Your right arm will still be around his neck, and for additional pressure place your left hand on his shoulder and press down.  
 



The third, quickly release his arm with your left hand. Place the outside edge of your left hand across his throat. Squeeze upwards with your right arm, which his wrapped behind his neck and downwards with your left hand, which is on his throat. For extra leverage, roll to your right onto your stomach and spread your base, like you are trying to smother him with your chest. All of your body weight will press your chest against your left hand into his throat. It will be a fast submission.
Master Moore  
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SHIN ROUNDHOUSE KICK
This is one of the most effective kicks found in Martial Arts. You use a roundhouse kick but instead of kicking with your foot you make contact with your shin. Your target area is the outside of the attackers thigh, halfway between his knee joint and his hip socket. For visualization, imagine the attacker wearing blue jeans, you try and place the kick directly on the outside seam of his jeans. It will have more power if you use your upper shin. It can be practiced using a kicking shield. Make sure you keep your guard up as you practice and try to follow through with your hips. The nerve that you are attacking is very exposed for lack of muscle coverage. This nerve gets pinched between your shin and his own leg bone (femur). When attacked, this nerve will temporarily paralyze the leg, it can last several minutes. This kick can be delivered at any time during a fight. You probably have noticed that if you kick towards anyone's groin they will have an automatic reaction to block. Unless a person is trained to leg check this kick, he will have no auto response for defending himself. One good way to practice this kick in a training drill is; As soon as the Attacker assumes a fighting stance, deliver the shin roundhouse kick to his lead leg, outer thigh area, as you lean upper body back out of striking range. This drill will help you to respond to the initial threat of a fighting stance. It also teaches the principle of becoming the aggressor at the beginning of an attack and prevents you from freezing during an initial attack, and also instinctively trains you to recognize different zones, the kicking (long) and striking (short) distances. You are destroying your attacker ability to move, fight and also chase you in the event you are trying to run away from the situation. Which, by the way, is the first course of self defense or more accurately, self preservation.
Master Moore

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THE MOST PAINFUL WRISTLOCK
Be careful when you practice this lock, it hurts. Remember to let go after two taps. As your opponent reaches towards your face with his right hand (with his thumb up), use your right hand to grip his hand by reaching over the top of his hand. His knuckle-line on the back of his hand should lay against the palm of your hand (your fingers will wrap around the bottom knife edge of his hand, your thumb will wrap the top of his hand). The key is to control the knuckle line, his thumb will be free. Next, twist his right hand clockwise with your right hand so that his thumb is down (about 7 O'clock) and his little finger is up (about 1 O'clock). With your left hand strike the inside of his elbow to bend it. Once his arm is half bent, snake your left hand (which is at the inside of his elbow) up to his fingers to reinforce the lock and grip his fingers of his right hand which will be starting to point straight up. The left hand grip should be an all finger grip which wraps around all of his fingers.(The inside -palm side of his fingers should be against your left palm.) From your angle you will see your right thumb followed by left index finger, middle finger, ring finger and little finger all stacked in a column applying pressure to his index finger. Pressure for this lock should be towards the opponent face, just like you are trying to touch his nose with his own fingertips. I hope you can understand this description, it is actually a very easy lock once you practice it. It will break a person down to his knees and there is no escape. You will be in a prime position to kick your opponent.
Master Moore

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STANDING MOVEMENT
It is easy to understand the basic concepts of how to move, but it challenges many new students. No matter what technique you are working on, you will have to move. You may move in linear, diagonal or curricular patterns. These are the basics:
1. Stay relaxed when you move.
2. Move as upright as possible.
3. Try to keep your feet under your shoulders.
4. Keep your feet close to the ground.
5. Always move so that all your weapons (strikes, kicks locks and throws) are available at any time.

If you are ridged it is hard to counter any lock or throw. If you bend forward at the waist and crouch you are setting your self up for a sacrifice throw (one where your opponent will fall to throw you). If you keep you feet under your shoulders it is impossible cross your feet. When you cross your feet a good opponent will take advantage and throw or trip you. Also don't spread your feet much wider then your shoulders, it really slows your mobility. A good test, is to spread your stance very wide and low. Have your partner sweep one of your feet as fast as they can. You try to move your foot to keep from being thrown. Now, relax your stance, stand upright and spread your base to the width of your shoulders. Try the same sweep. Notice how that you can now move twice as fast. And finally, don't walk as you do in everyday situations. Keep your feet close to the ground, even sliding them on the surface at times. Never swing your centerline back and forth in front of an attacker as you move. Watch a person on ice. They perform all of the above principles to maintain optimum balance (except for being relaxed). Think of moving your center as do techniques. (Your center is about 2 inches below your navel, near the knot in your belt).
Master Moore

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FINGER LOCKS
Finger locks are very effective because a small frail person can control a much larger and stronger person. There are two basic types of finger locks, a straight finger lock and a bent or compressed finger lock. The easiest to learn is the straight style. The most efficient number of fingers to control at the same time is 2. If you try and lock 1 finger, many opponents can twist themselves free. If you try and control 3 or 4 fingers at the same time, a larger opponent can power his way out. By holding 2 fingers at the same time, you can prevent the opponent from twisting free, and also 2 fingers are manageable if your hand is smaller. Take your right hand and grab 2 adjoining fingers on your partners left hand. Bend his fingers back. Your opponent can be moved about by a finger lock. He will move in the direction of his palm. To make him go face down, his palm should move towards the floor while bending his fingers back. To make him stand up, turn his palm upwards will bending his fingers back. You can also make a person move sideways using this same principle. If you want your opponents arm to remain straight, the main focus of your leverage should be to pull his knuckles out of his hand. If you want your opponents arm to bend, the main focus of your leverage should be in bending his fingers back. Either one of these motions is very subtle. The finger lock makes a good transition technique in between other techniques. Remember to communicate with your partner and tap out if the lock is to painful.
Master Moore

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CLOSE THREAT WITH A LONG GUN
This is a disarm for a rifle, shotgun or even a submachine gun. The attacker is at close range with the gun pointed towards your chest or head (facing you). He can be holding the gun under is arm or mounted in his shoulder and he is gripping it with both hands. For this description we will assume he is holding the gun in a right handed grip. Start with your hands down at your side. Raise your hands swiftly, bringing your right wrist under the barrel of the gun (it looks like an overhead block) pushing the barrel up and towards your right above your own head level (while you tilt to your left) as your left hand grips over the top of the gun just in front of his right hand (this will be directly above the trigger area on the gun). With a smooth continuous motion, drive the gun barrel (where the front site is) over the top and into his face while pulling with your left hand down and towards your left hip. As you do this back away to gain space so you are not grappling for the gun. You will be holding the gun in a left-handed position with the stock under your left arm. Learn to feel comfortable in a left-handed shooting position, avoid the urge to switch the gun to a right hand grip. If you want to feel comfortable disarming guns, go to a shooting range with a firearms instructor and learn to shoot every firearm you can. It is important to learn how different guns function. At one seminar (after making sure all guns were clear of ammunition) I demonstrated this disarm on every style of long gun, hunting rifle, shotgun, assault rifle and machine gun. We had a firearms instructor bring all of these styles of guns for this reason. I do not let students do this with real guns. We had one talented student make mock guns out of wood or can use a toy gun. DO NOT USE A REAL GUN.
Master Moore

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ELBOW SNAP
This is a simple arm break that is extremely fast. Your opponent is in a boxing stance, he punches towards your face with his lead hand (a jab). If he has his left foot forward and is punching with his left hand, you quickly step to your right (to the outside of his punch) and slightly forward. With your right arm bent (fist up in the air), block his elbow (just above the joint). A fraction of a second later, strike the inside of his forearm (close to his wrist) with your left forearm (close to your wrist), pulling back towards your left shoulder as pushing with your right arm. This motion bends his arm in the wrong direction. It is a very fast motion. Coordinate the break at the time when his arm is nearing full extension. Try to do the break with your arms fully bent and the motion with your shoulders. Make sure you block his elbow slightly ahead of the break, this will keep you from pulling the punch into your face. You can also do this technique with your hands instead of your forearms, this will be weaker because the more joints (your own wrist joints) you add to the break the weaker the armbar will be. Have your partner punch with his arm slightly bent. During practice, this technique will hyper extend his arm, accidentally (if his arm is extended). You should never fully extend your punching arm during a punch in any situation, you will eventually damage your elbow. Be careful, this is not a tap out technique, it’s too fast.
Master Moore

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INCREASING PUNCHING SPEED AND POWER
When I teach new students to punch I start with the basics. A good foundation (stance), reciprocal power drawn from the ground to the hips to the shoulder to the hand. I am sure many have learned these principles. As a student becomes more advanced and they have the basics mastered, I like to increase their punching speed and power. Stand facing your partner, extend your arm, just so your punch can not reach their chest. Have your partner use his fasted block. You throw your punch and see if your partner can block before your fist touches his uniform. Before I disclose the secret of a punch to the class, everyone can usually block the incoming attack. After they have learned the secret of speed and power, very few people can stop the punch. The “secret?is in the order of body movement. All beginners move their shoulder forwards a split second before they deliver the punch. The correct movement is to keep your shoulders motionless while you punch with your arm. When your fist nears the target area then engage your shoulder to deliver the power. You can test this with a simple push to the chest in slow motion. Move your shoulder forward and then push on their chest. The most power you can deliver this way is through your arm extension strength. Now, touch their chest with your palm with arm all but extended. Now, push with your shoulder (also your hips, legs and feet). You will notice you can send a person several feet with this principle. This technique will more than double your power. By mastering this technique you will automatically increase your punching speed. If you move your shoulder then your punching arm, your speed is actually diminishing until it makes contact. If you move your punching arm THEN move your shoulder you are accelerating the incoming fist. It is a very simple movement that must be mastered in slow motion so that your body can react in empty mind at full speed. You will never have to windup or drawl back for a punch if you apply this technique. Remember, always keep your punching arm slightly bent. Full extension can damage your elbow.
Master Moore

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OVERHEAD STICK DISARM
The overhead attack is the most common attack of an untrained fighter. This is a description of the most effective way to take a medium to long length weapon away from an attacker. The weapon could be a stick, pipe, tree branch, sword, baseball bat, axe or any other weapon. This disarm can be used for any overhead angle. It can be a one handed grip or a two handed grip, a one handed grip is the easiest to practice. Have your partner hold a stick in his right hand. He will swing his stick straight down towards your head. Move slightly to your right and towards your partner. Block the inside of his wrist with your left hand and his forearm with your right hand. Allow his swing to continue down until it reaches your belt level (the weapon will be beside your left hip bone). While the weapon is moving down to this position hook your right elbow (arm in a bent position) to the outside knuckle line of your partners right hand (the one with the weapon). With a fast motion move your right elbow to your right hip. This will disarm the weapon by rolling it around your belt. If you do not practice fighting with weapons, let the stick drop and use your favorite technique to finish the attacker. If you like to fight with weapons, you can capture the stick in two different ways. The first way, open your right hand has you snap your elbow back to your right hip. The stick will snap into your hand. This will place the weapon in a reversed grip. The second way, as your right elbow hooks and starts to snap, grab the stick with your left hand, this will end in a normal left handed grip. With a sword it will appear that you will gut yourself. As you hook with your elbow use a slight upward motion with your elbow as you start the snap. This will roll the blade to a flat position as it rolls around your belt. Use your left hand to grip the top of the blade during the snap. After the snap, continue the rear movement back with your right hand and grip the sword. The weapon will end in a standard right hand grip ready to counter attack. Make sure your partner starts with a large slow swing. And remember, never stand stationary and hard block this attack. The weapon will eject out of the attackers hand and strike you in the back of the head. If any student doubts this, I demonstrate with a large axe (in slow motion) with one of my Instructors. We simulate the ejection by showing how the weapon swings down. Remember when you hard block, the harder and faster they hit you the faster and harder the weapon will strike your head.
Master Moore

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The MOUNT
When you learn grappling it is important to master the Mount. Have your partner lie on his back, as you straddle him like you are riding a horse. Keep your position towards his upper chest. If you straddle near his waist or stomach area, he can buck you off. By staying forward you can control his arm movements with your knees. Your knees should be near his armpits. If he tries to buck you forward, you can post your hands no the ground (over his head). The mount is not a technique, it is a grappling position, just the same as a stance is used for standing combat. It is a strong position because gravity is on your side. The most common techniques from this position are armbars or strangles. To escape a mount you must bring one of the attackers arms across his center so he become vulnerable to tilt, then buck him into his weak corner. To properly enter a mount, throw or trip your partner down, come across his body with your chest (similar to a cross hold) then move into the straddled position. Never step over your partner and then lower yourself into the mount. This exposes your legs for locks and your groin for a strikes. Remember always practice slow and relaxed so you both can learn. Try not to rely on strength to gain your positions.
Master Moore

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THE GUARD
Unlike wrestling, most Jujitsu players enjoy grappling from a position where they are flat on the their back. If you are in this position, and your partner is standing, keep your feet toward your partner. As your partner closes to begin grappling, use your feet to control his movements. The soles of your feet can be used to control his hips and or his shoulders. The top of your feet can be used to control his knees by hooking them. This works in any combination (one foot on the hip the other hooking the knee). Practice switching foot positions as your partner moves in on you. When your partner breaks past the above movements, try and capture him around his waste (near his floating ribs) with your legs. This position is known as the guard. Do not let your partner roll his weight over you (towards your head), keep him down with the guard. When either of his arms reach towards your upper body this presents an excellent opportunity to perform a cross armbar, which uses your legs, hips and arms to dislocate his elbow. There are also several strangles that can be performed from the guard. The Guard and the Mount are actually the same technique (simply inverted). You will also notice that if you both roll over and switch positions, you will be in the mount. If you are caught in the Guard, you want to try and pass the Guard. There are two very effective ways to break the Guard (or the locking of the legs around you). One is by using your knee to pressure his tail bone while holding his belt and pushing yourself to your rear. The second is to use your elbow to work the pressure point on the inner thigh. Once his legs unlock continue to push the leg down to the mat, and place your shin (just below your knee) at the same inner thigh pressure point, now pass over the controlled leg and move into a cross hold or any upper body technique. You can use the guard to rest, or as a transition to another hold, or to move to a submission technique. Avoid grappling in actual combat because of the high chance of multiple attackers. While your busy grappling, their friend will be busy hitting you with a baseball bat. When you become proficient in grappling, add strikes while on the ground. Remember when practicing stay relaxed and play give and take, this is the fasted way to feel comfortable grappling.
Master Moore

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HOW TO MOVE FROM A PUNCH TO THE FACE
The movement and block for a punch to the face. Look at the stance your partner is in. We will assume he has his left foot forward. It doesn't matter what type of punch or whether it is a left or right handed punch. The only thing that matters is that he is in punching range and which foot is forward. Since he has his left foot forward, as he starts to punch at your head, move to your right and kick his lower shin with a left roundhouse kick. The purpose of this foundation kick is to slow his motion down so you can continue the attack. Do not move forward only move sideways. You will be moving from punching range out to kicking range. As you become proficient the movement will become smaller. He should not be able to reach your head with a second shot if you have moved properly. In Jujitsu we move to the outside shoulder so that we can easily move to the rear and strangle or takedown the attacker. If you accidentally move to the inside, you most always follow up with strike and kicks since you are entering his centerline. If he had his right foot forward you would move to the left. Your hands start from a low position (you are trying to get him to punch you in the face) and they draw up as you block. What ever block you prefer to use is fine. You don't have to worry about receiving a kick at this tight range because his kick will jam. However, even if is firing a knee strike, the above movement will prevent heavy contact. In your training, don’t rely on blocks in which you must decide whether you are receiving a left punch or a right punch. Because on the street you will get it wrong 50% of the time. Remember always try and adjust your movement to the stance they are using.
Master Moore

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HOW TO MOVE FROM A KICK
This is a very efficient movement when you are in the kicking range of your opponent. Have your partner assumes a fighting stance (right foot forward for this example) and delivers any kick towards your midsection or head. Determine which his leading side. In this stance his right side is forward. As he begins to chamber move diagonally back to your left back corner (while still facing your opponent). You will be moving back and away from his lead side. If he does not step forward after he kicks, you will automatically be at a far enough range so that you will not be hit by a secondary strike or kick. If he stepped forward after attempting the kick, you can follow up with a groin strike or a shin roundhouse, which ever target is available. You will notice by moving diagonally back away from the lead shoulder, that you are in a favorable stance and position facing your attacker. Your attacker however, must step or turn towards you to engage a second attack. If you learn this movement, you will not need to worry whether it is a right kick or a left kick, you simply move back and away from his lead shoulder. When fighting at this distance, this movement will also work for a lunging punch. This technique is also referred to as zoning.
Master Moore

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DISARMING A BASEBALL BAT
This is a very powerful disarm that can stop a base ball bat attack. Have your partner swing the bat like a right handed batter. Practice slowly at first until you become proficient. As he swings, move swiftly forward and diagonally to your right. This movement absorbs the impact of the attack. You use both forearms to block his swing. Your right forearm is blocks at his elbows and your left forearm blocks his hands. With your left arm circle around his hands. When his wrist start to roll over from this motion, continue the downwards circular push with your right forearm. This motion will release his grip and you will be holding the bat in a reversed grip. Remember do not block the bat, block the attacking arms. If you get caught in a swing, and instinctively move back out of range, and you partner misses you. Jump in towards him as swings back in the opposite direction and use this same technique left handed. Remember to start slow and build your speed so that you can disarm someone trying to hit a home-run with your head.
Master Moore

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